Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:31:39 -0700 (MST) To: ius-l@AMERICAN.EDU From: javiles@azstarnet.com (Jennifer Aviles) Subject: Grand Canyon info (long) http://www.thecanyon.com/nps/ http://www.nationalgeographic.com/modules/grandcanyon/ Enough people have e-mailed me over the last two weeks that I thought I'd put this info here again. I cannot for the life of me find the file that listed all the new places to stay in Tusayan, which is just outside the Park gates and which now has several motels available. Anyway, what follows first is a trail description and then a general how to get there/how to make reservations kind of thing. Two winter storms have come into the area so far but I have no idea about snow. It's been down in the low 40's here in Tucson so if the weather doesn't change, expect it to be quite cold up north. Jennifer Aviles javiles@azstarnet.com 20.6 miles each way. South Rim 7200 feet, Phantom Ranch 2450, North Rim 8240. Total climb: NtoS is 5500 feet, S to N is 6500 feet. Double is 12000 feet. The Kaibab Trail starts at Yaki Point on the South Rim. Yaki Point is about a five mile drive from the Grand Canyon Lodges (Yavapai, Bright Angel Lodge, etc.) The trail starts with a series of short steep switchbacks (if it's dry, the trail is deep in dust (reddish that stains everything it touches) punctuated by puddles of mule urine and feces if the animals have been down/up it recently), before reaching a more gradual and longer series of switchbacks leading down to Cedar Ridge (the trail drops 1200 feet in 1.5 miles). Just before Cedar Ridge, the trail becomes very steep. The ridge itself is somewhat wide and flat so you can take a breather here and not worry about traildrop-offs. Guide to your right to continue the trail which continues to be dusty (unless it rains. substitute muddy for dusty). The trail continues dropping, following long traverses until you reach a fairly long (several hundred yards) and nearly level ridge heading north. This takes you to Skeleton Point. Below Skeleton Point, the trail drops sharply in a series of shorter switchbacks down to the Tonto Plateau. The trail cuts straight across Tonto Plateau (which is not very gradual but continues to drop) and then enters the inner gorge. This section is mostly reasonable grades and long traverses but there is no break in the grade. [btw think about this now since you'll be returning this route on the double]. Just before you reach the suspension bridge across the Colorado River, you will go through a short but very dark tunnel. At the bridge, you will have run 6.4 miles and dropped 4780 feet net. This stretch should take you from 50 (very fast) to 90 minutes to complete. The trail drops down along the river, heading west to Bright Angel Creek and then turns north along the east bank of Bright Angel to Phantom Ranch. There are several trails thru the ranch; don't cross Bright Angel but stay on the east bank until you get beyond the ranch. There is a water spigot and toilet facilities here, as well. The next section of trail stays within a very narrow gorge with nearly vertical walls. The trail crosses Bright Angel (on bridges) several times before the canyon opens up. The trail can be rocky (not terribly so) in places and again dusty. Once the canyon opens up, you will stay on the east bank and make a short but nasty climb over a little hill and then reach Cottonwood Camp. There is water here and facilities, too. About a half-mile past Cottonwood Camp, the trail crosses Bright Angel Creek for the last time and passes by a ranger cabin. This is potentially the last water you will find on the trail. If it's late in the season fall), the spigot much further up as well as at the top will have been turned off. Always check about the water anyway; pipes could've broken meaning the water may not be safe to drink unless you treat it or it may even be turned off at Cottonwood. From the suspension bridge below Phantom Ranch to this point, you will have covered 8.8 miles and climbed from 2420 to 4650 feet. This should require from 1.5 to 3 hours. The trail now begins its inexorable climb to the North Rim. Another 1.2 miles past the ranger cabin, you will see a trail leading down to Roaring Springs. This is a dead-end; do not take this side trail. Another 1.3 miles beyond this point, you will reach the Cliffs (elevation 6100feet). The trail has been blasted out of the side of the canyon for several hundred yards and the drop off is remarkable and the footing is pretty good unless it's icy. Another 1.2 miles further and you will drop down into a side canyon and cross a suspension bridge. From this point, the trail really climbs. It will be dirt with loose gravel much of the way, by the way, starting up from the cabin. You'll climb about 1000 feet in the next mile. The trail passes through another, shorter tunnel at 19.9 miles and the trail becomes more gradual for the final climb to the North Rim. The trail sign marks the turn-around point for the double. The final climb from the Ranger Cabin should take from one to almost 3 hours depending on your conditioning. The trail the last couple of miles is away from the side of the canyon itself. Heading back, the trail is too steep for easy running down to the ranger cabin. The drop offs are more remarkable in this direction, as well. If you are afraid of heights/depths, you might consider purchasing ski sunglasses that sort of act as blinders for your peripheral vision so you won't be as concerned about the drop offs. The trail is the same going back. The record for the final climb out (bridge to rim) is an incredible 1:48 (hours:minutes). Anything under 3 hours is really quite good and depending on your condition when you reach Phantom Ranch, you might take 4 or five hours to cover the final 6.4 miles via the Kaibab Trail route. Getting to and staying at the Grand Canyon: The Grand Canyon is accessible by both air and car (or for that matter, by foot if you wish). There's an airport at the Grand Canyon and also in Flagstaff. Most folks fly in to Phoenix and then drive the very pretty route up through Sedona and on into Flagstaff before going on to the Grand Canyon. >From Phoenix you'll drive I-17 to Flagstaff. It's about 145 miles and takes about two hours from the airport. It's 90 miles between Flagstaff and Grand Canyon Village. That drive takes about 1.5 hours because it's a two lane but well-paved road and the speed limit is 55 mph. Once you near Grand Canyon National Park, you'll travel through Tusayan Village. Several motels have sprung up there and you might want to stay there rather than stay in the Park if you are not camping and you want to keep expenses down. Otherwise, it's wise to call several weeks in advance of your trip (a couple of months wouldn't hurt). The number for advance reservations at any of the lodges near the rim is a Denver number, actually: 303 297 2757. They also carry a fax. I'm not sure what one might do with that but the number is 303 297 3175. For same day reservations, call 520 638 2631. There are also campgrounds. Expect to find places booked pretty heavily on a regular basis and particularly so during the summer, during October when the leaves turn colors, and over Christmas to New Years. THE place to stay on the rim if your pocket book can handle it is El Tovar Lodge. It's old and simply gorgeous; the rooms are spacious. It's not modern but it is beautiful. For a little less, choose the Bright Angel Lodge if you want to stay on the rim. This is more like a motel. There are other lodges within walking distance (a mile or so) from the Rim. We usually stay at Yavapai because the nearby cafeteria is excellent and the rooms are reasonable and spartan. Since we only sleep there, it doesn't seem to matter. Another possibility is to stay at the North Rim. The Grand Canyon lodges offers a shuttle so that if you planned your trip to do a Single, you could stay at the South Rim, then the next day take the shuttle up and enjoy the scenery and a good meal at the North Rim Lodge and cabins. The next morning, run to the South Rim, spend the night, and then drive home. It's a wonderful way to enjoy both rims. The North Rim is usually open from about mid-May to mid-October or early November, depending on snow melt/fall. The drive from the South Rim to the North Rim takes at least five hours. Some points to remember: educate yourself about canyon conditions. Call the back country office the day before you start your trek to check on trail conditions, water availability, and so forth. The number is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. MST. It is a fact that water is life at the Grand Canyon. Drink it. Carry lots of it. The average temperature within the canyon during the summer is 100 F. That's the AVERAGE temperature. It's best to run at other times during the year. When the temperature on the rim is 75 degrees F, the Inner Canyon may be 110 degrees. Quality rain gear of some kind and a wool cap should be included in your pack for a traverse of the canyon. The weather changes can be nasty. The only way out is on foot or by helicopter ($1000 and up) or mule (they'll sock you a hefty price to get out this way without a reservation to do so). If you start to feel ill, don't insist that you MUST continue. Turn around. Rest. Then get out. All of us/most of us are used to treks where we climb and then descend to get "home". At the Grand Canyon, you'll first descend and then climb and then descend and then climb. That plays incredible havoc on knees and hips and if you're having any difficulty to start with in those areas, do the canyon another time. I've never seen a snake on the trail. Have seen mule deer, though. And, on the south Kaibab, lots of people. The rules of etiquette state that you must stop and wait for instructions from the leaders of the Mule teams. Do not attempt to pass without their permission. If you arrive early enough at the Park, there's a General Store (Babbitts) to visit to pick up things that you may have forgotten - just about anything and everything you might need, save running shoes, is there including laminated topo maps. The store is usually open until 9 p.m. seven days a week.